Probably the most ignored aspect of regular maintenance is the chain. Most people just spray a little lube now and then, then wonder why their chain doesn’t last. Think about what your chain goes through:
- It is under tremendous torque most of the time, undergoing rapid power and drag, over and over.
- It is exposed to dirt and grime. All those little particles can work their way into the links and rollers, and are like sandpaper.
I have a maintenance schedule for our chains:
- Clean and lube ever ride
- Remove and do a full clean every 3-4 rides
- Replace when worn (I’ll cover that later), replacing the sprockets with the chain.
O-Ring Chains - If you have an O-ring chain, then all you need to do is wipe off the chain with a cloth. If it is really dirty, hit it with a nylon brush. Really. Don’t use a wire brush as that can damage the O-rings, and never soak the chain any type of solvent as that will dissolve the lube that is being kept in by the O-rings.
For those of us who try and save a buck and run regular chains, then read on.
- When cleaning your bike, DON’T direct water at the chain. It will force water into the rollers, and cause corrosion. Any indication of rust on a chain and it should be tossed.
- Take a wire brush (chain brushes work great), and clean off any dirt and debris. Here is a chain brush that is pretty cheap, and works good.
- After cleaning the bike, take your air-compressor and blow off the chain. This will remove any loose dirt and water.
- Spray the chain with your favorite chain lube (which I recommend over oil as it will stick to the chain better, not fling off, and keeps dirt out because of its waxy properties.) I prefer Belray.
- I will lube the chain again when we get to the track after taking a few laps. Riding warms up the chain, and the lube will seep into the rollers better.
Checking Sprocket tension: If you chain is too loose it will cause premature wear of the sprockets and chain. If you chain is too tight it will put strain on the whole drive system. (Note that all chains will stretch some. Cheaper ones stretch a lot)
- Check with your owners manual for the correct tension settings.
- Note that you should always have someone sit on the bike to get the swingarm level, which is the point that the chain will be at the most tension, and that is where you should check the adjustment.
- If you need to remove links you can get a tool to push out the pin, but I find that my side-grinder with a cut-wheel works just fine. Put the chain in your shop vise, and cut the link in half on one side, then flip it over and cut out the metal at the roller on the other side, the link roller should pop right out. You have to be careful not to damage the link you are leaving, and remember that you take out two links at a time, leaving the inside links for the master link to fit into. It's a good idea to fit the chain with the adjusters all the way up to ensure that the chain will still fit after you remove the two links. It would be a bummer to have to toss it because you cut it too short.
- Also be careful to adjust each side equally, using the markings on the axle blocks. Use the adjusters to set the rear wheel where you want it, then while applying forward pressure to the rear wheel, tighten the axle bolt. Then tighten the chain adjusters.
- Now check to ensure that the rear sprocket and chain are aligned in a straight line to the front sprocket, and that everything turns freely.
Every few rides I like to really clean the chains, getting all the little particles out so that my chains last longer.
- Before cleaning your bike, remove the chain, drop it into the bottom of a five gallon bucket, and pour some kerosene in the bucket to cover the chain. (again, this is NOT for o-ring chains)
- This is a good time to inspect your sprockets and guides. Worn sprockets will look like shark fins (see the photo at right), and if they look like this they should be replaced.
- Also check the swingarm rub plate on the swingarm. Over time the rubber can wear through, and the chain will rub against the swingarm, which is not a good thing! When the rub plate is worn, I go with Acerbie.
- Also, check the rear chain guide to make sure that the material on the inside has not worn down, again the chain will begin to rub on the chain guide frame, causing pre-mature chain wear.
- Check your chain rollers to ensure they are not worn, and that they turn freely. Go ahead and pop them off and put some waterproof grease on the inside of the roller.
- Back to the chain - After the chain has been in the kerosene for 10 minutes or so, swish it around, and repeat this process a few times. If there is a lot of dirt, I will pour out the kerosene and dirt, wash out the bucket, pour in some clean kerosene and let it soak overnight.
- Swish it around one last time, and pull the chain out. There will usually be a bunch of grit in the bottom of the bucket. It all came out of your chain. Your chain thanks you for removing it.
- When you pull it out for the last time, let it sit for ten minutes or so to let all the fluid drain, and then soak the chain in lube. Some people use regular oil, I prefer chainsaw bar lube. Strange I know, but it is a little thinner so that it more dirt will seep out of the chain (even after all that cleaning in kerosene, there will still be some fine grit that will seep out), and it drains off the chain good.
- After soaking it for a day or so, I’ll drape the chain over my vise, with the bucket underneath, and let it drain for overnight.
- When I re-install the chain, I’ll spray some chain lube on it, and I usually don’t get very much sling. Make sure you install the master link clip with the closed end towards the front of the bike.
Chain Sets - I have had good results with the Turner kit from MotoSport, and the Primary Drive kit from Rocky Mountain ATV.
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